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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.